· By Buffy
Servicing
What a service actually includes, when to schedule one, what it should cost in principle — and the failure signs that can't wait.
A watch service is mostly a cleaning and re-lubrication job with an inspection attached. Understanding that frame makes every service decision easier.
What happens at a service
- Case opening and movement removal, hands and dial off.
- Full disassembly in the service order.
- Ultrasonic cleaning of every part, inspection for wear under magnification.
- Reassembly with fresh oils — the actual substance of the job, per the lubrication schedule.
- Gaskets, casing, and pressure test (water resistance).
- Timing and regulation in positions (what healthy looks like).
Wear parts (mainspring, winding wheels, seconds hand cannon pinions, cracked jewels) are replaced as found.
When to service
There is no universal number; the interval is really an oil life estimate:
- Modern, daily-worn: every 5-8 years is the common guidance; many makers now say 8-10 with modern oils. Judge by amplitude and rate drift, not the calendar.
- Vintage, occasional wear: oils dry out whether worn or not; 4-5 years if you actually wear it.
- Water-use watches: gasket check annually, service on schedule — salt water is a countdown timer.
Signs it’s overdue
- Rate drifting steadily (±15 s/day and growing) — see Positions and Rate.
- Amplitude below 220° dial up on full wind.
- Winding gritty or uneven; rotor noisy in an automatic.
- Any moisture under the crystal. Stop wearing it.
What service is not
It is not a “tune-up” of magic accuracy: regulation adjusts the compromise, it doesn’t rebuild worn pivots. It is not optional for water-use. And it is never “just oil the outside” — external oiling destroys movements.
Cost scales with complication count (repeater services are a specialty), parts scarcity (vintage), and case construction. The keyless works and calendar works add hours; the chronograph adds levers. Budget for it as ownership cost, like tires.